This proved unnecessary because when I used the mallet to knock the dowels into place, they ended up snug and secure (though I may need to do so depending on how it wears). I had planned to drill and screw down through the timber into the dowel to secure it in place.
#Mokey bars full#
Sanding everything beforehand would have been helpful (as would having a full design!).Would definitely swap for a spade bit or other kind. I'm thinking about adding another piece and creating a modular ninja warrior course for them! You could put mats underneath if you only had hard floors etc.
My monkey bars were done! The girls love them and I've put them on some soft grass so any falls are pretty well cushioned. This showed me the angle I needed to cut the timber at. I then took a second 1600mm length and put one side on top of the first one with the other on top of the ladder frame, creating a triangle. This showed me where the leg would need to end. To figure out the angle of the cut, I lay my ‘ladder’ on its side and placed one 1600mm length square against the end, creating a right angle (see awful drawing). Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of this part so you just get my awful drawing but hopefully that and the below description makes it clear. After attempting to calculate angles for the legs using trigonometry, I gave up and decided a more practical method would be quicker (and easier than trying to remember something I haven't used in 20 years). I knew that in having angled legs, I'd need an angled cut on the top and bottom of each leg to secure it to a horizontal baseboard. I cut 4 x my remaining pine lengths down to 1600mm on my mitre saw knowing that was roughly the height I wanted, reserving the 1000mmm offcuts.